Dama de Cao, the woman who changed the history of Peru

Dr Régulo G. Franco Jordán, world-renowned Peruvian archaeologist and former director of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Machu Picchu, was a guest of USI UNESCO Chair directed by Professor Lorenzo Cantoni and gave a lecture as part of the Master in International Tourism. During his talk "From the Moche to the Inca. A journey through Peruvian archaeology from the Señora de Cao to Machu Picchu", he took the audience on a fascinating journey through the pre-Columbian era of South America, focusing on the discovery that marked his career and profoundly changed the understanding of the history of Peru: the discovery of Dama de Cao, the first woman recognised as a leader of the Moche civilisation.

The discovery, which challenged long-standing paradigms and conceptions, occurred nearly twenty years ago, in 2006, in northwestern Peru. Specifically, it occurred at the Moche civilisation's archaeological site known as El Brujo. One day, during their research, Franco Jordán and his team uncovered what was once a large temple—the largest in the area. Inside, they found a ceremonial enclosure adorned with beautiful paintings and intricate iconography that depicted the Moche world. "It was an extraordinary discovery, the best of my life," said the Peruvian archaeologist. "That day, even so, I felt like the happiest and most fulfilled man on Earth. I couldn't imagine that, shortly afterwards, things would get even better." Further down, a sensational surprise awaited them at a depth of about two metres. "Digging further, we found a tomb with a funerary bundle. Next to it was a second skeleton, which we later identified as that of a teenager. Additionally, we found various artefacts, including ceramic pots, weapons, and jewellery. Notably, the funerary bundle was the best-preserved example ever found. We later determined that it dated back 1,700 years prior to our discovery."

Weighing over 100 kilograms, the bundle was carefully removed and carried outside in a procession guided by a curandero—a local healer—who Franco Jordán had specifically requested to perform a welcome ritual as a sign of respect for the body. Following this, the various layers of fabric that enveloped the body were removed until the actual remains were revealed. Up to that point, the Peruvian archaeologists were convinced that they had discovered a male, who was likely an important priest and possibly even a sovereign. Instead, as soon as he saw the body, John Verano – a famous anthropologist and professor at Tulane University, who had arrived on site to identify the remains – surprised everyone: "It is a woman." That moment, as Franco Jordán explained in his speech at USI, changed the interpretation of Peruvian history forever: "There was no doubt about it, before us was a woman who had wielded immense power in her lifetime. Several aspects led us to this conclusion, from the tattoos of snakes, spiders, and pumas adorning her body to the objects discovered alongside her. The choice of her burial location and the technique used further reinforced this idea. She appeared to be an authoritative figure—likely a curandera, or priestess—deeply connected to the heavens and skilled in astronomy. We are discussing a semi-divine individual of incredibly high rank, wielding both spiritual and political influence. This revelation challenges the previously held belief that only male figures occupied the top positions in the Moche civilisation." Recent studies conducted at Harvard University on the DNA of the bodies found at the site have made it possible to establish that several members of her family circle were buried with what is now known as Dama de Cao (The Lady of Cao).

Today, Dama de Cao is on display in a museum next to where she was found, which was built specifically to pass on her greatness and the importance of that archaeological site. "Out of respect for her and all the ancestors, however, the body is not directly visible," explained the Peruvian archaeologist. The influence of the Lady in the region has been significant over the last few decades, extending beyond the El Brujo complex. "Her discovery has strengthened the identity of women throughout the area and beyond. Dama de Cao and her power are constantly honoured and celebrated, and she has become a pillar of local culture and tradition."

The future of Peruvian archaeology, between conservation and discoveries

In the concluding part of his speech at USI, Franco Jordán discussed his present, having directed the archaeological site of Machu Picchu in 2024, as well as his future. In the first case, he illustrated how history and tradition today clash daily with a problem of global extension: the so-called "overtourism". "Most tourists who visit Peru tend to concentrate their attention on a few key locations, particularly Machu Picchu," explained the third director of the site to have visited USI over the years, a world record. "During the high season, Machu Picchu welcomes up to 5,600 visitors daily, leading to significant challenges over the years. As a result, we have had to close certain areas and will soon need to implement further restrictions. This is unfortunate, and for this reason, we are actively working to identify and provide valid alternatives that can engage travellers and help reduce the daily flow in the most popular areas. We are creating maps with complete itineraries designed to help visitors discover sites that may currently seem secondary but are actually of crucial importance, just like the El Brujo complex, home to Dama de Cao."

Franco Jordán has not, however, given up his primary vocation: field research. On the contrary, "in April, I will lead an expedition to the Pitusiray mountains (almost 5,000 metres above sea level, en). We believe that this site, supported by discoveries related to ancient texts and iconographies, may be connected to the origins of the Inca civilisation. Additionally, it could be linked to treasures that locals concealed from the Spanish conquerors. Using advanced geomagnetic instruments, we will search for these artefacts, which we hope will greatly enhance our understanding of Peru's history."